One of Nepal’s overlooked ethnic communities until a few decades ago, Sherpas have not only become a fascinating subject of study, they also have emerged as a meaningful global symbol. Story by Chhabi Adhikari
Twenty-year-old Mingma Sherpa from Solu Khumbu could have hardly thought that his dreams would be fulfilled so sooner.The realization of the unique identity of his race has made even the toughest possible for him.
He grew up in utter poverty, and having no formal education or a sound economic base, he got accustomed since long to not dream the unrealizable.
Something happened some time ago, and his life changed dramatically. Today he has money, he is a frequent traveler to the United States and one of his sisters studies in California. “At least, my life has changed completely,” he says with an innocent grin, winking his chinky eyes. “I’m a Sherpa”, he recalls thinking aloud one fine day in the early 1996, “and climbing is what I’m made for.” Soon he joined an expedition as a high altitude porter. Since then there is no looking backward.
Mingma’s story is representative of many Sherpa youths today. In fact, there is nothing new in his story. The legendary first Everest summitter Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, despite his fluency in seven languages, was just the same illiterate person, whose life changed drastically following the succesful ascent. The same is true of other notable Sherpa climbers-- Ang Rita, Ang Kami, Sundare and more. Having carved a niche for themselves as the ‘Tigers of the Snows’, a growiing number of Sherpas are no more an obscure, impoverished and insulated people.
When the ‘mythical, exotic and inaccessible’ Nepal opened up for the Western World in the early 50s, the hippies and the bums flooded to Nepal to experience the ‘Wildest Dream of Kew”-- a reference to Rudyard Kipling’s poem on Nepal’s capital-- while at the same time more and more climbing expeditions began with the locally hired Sherpas.With the first successful ascent of Mt. Everest by Norgay and Edmund Hillary of New Zealand on the day Queen Elizabeth of England was coronated (May 28, 1953); Sherpa identity was firmly established. Because of their incomparable ability in climbing and carrying things to the highest camps, it very soon became a custom for all Himalayan expeditions to hire them.
In the words of Everest historian Audrey Salkeld, Sherpas have an unmatched spirit and positive outlook that has been written the world over. But the tragedy behind their success is seldom apparent. So is their economic plight. Since the early days of climbing, they have paid extremely a high price in life and limb. In the seven decades of Everest adventure Sherpas account to more than a third of the total casualties. They are exposed to the extreme risks of high mountain climbing more than anyone else because of their engagement in carrying things and fixing routes. They make up one fourth of the total ascents of Everest.
Some wonder what constitutes Sherpa strengh. Researchers are trying to find out if the highland Sherpas are physiologically different from other people. Dr. Cythia Beall, a physiologist of Case Western University thinks that there may be a genetic factor involved in the Sherpa vigor. “How the Sherpas adapt to high altitudes more effectively than others has been a puzzle to anthropologists and physiologists; And we don’t really have the answer. There is evidence of a gene that allows their blood to carry more oxygen.”
One of Nepal’s overlooked ethnic communities until a few decades ago, Sherpas have not only become a fascinating subject of study, they also have emerged as a meaningful global symbol. Scores of books, documentaries and films about them have also popularized their image as a western cultural icon. Remember the Canadian manufacturer of electronic appliances called the Sherpa, or the Seattle based interactive media group called the Virtual Sherpas?
The first ascent of Everest marking the beginning of tourism industry in Nepal opened up the floodgates to bevies of climbers, trekkers, and tourists, including Jimmy Carter in the early 60s. Tourism considerably changed the local economy and Sherpa lifestyle in the Solu Khumbu region.
Though majority of Sherpas are still poor, illiterate and immobile, in recent years an elite, affluent and altogether different class of Sherpa people have emerged in some regions of Solu and in the city of Kathmandu. Having migrated to Nepal in the 15th century from Kham province in Eastern Tibet, Sherpas with a total population of 21,000 live not only in the whole region of the shadow of Mt. Everest including a certain number of localities in the areas of Helambu, Melenchi, Tharkegyang, there are also many living overseas. According to newspaper reports, there are about 500 Sherpas in New York City alone.
Though no roads or highways to drive to Sherpaland, with Coke, Pepsi, satellite dishes and Sherpas clad in T-shirts and jeans, Namche Bazar, the capital city of Sherpaland, is already a familiar environment for western tourists. Ed Hillary’s Himalayan Trust, dedicated to improving the lot of Sherpa community has had a great bearing on the lives of these people. The Khumjung School, run by the Trust, has been contributing in Sherpa education.
Many Sherpas can now afford to study abroad.Tenzing’s son Jamling Norgay, who too climbed the Everest in1997, acknowledges his indebtedness to his father for the excellent educational opportunity he got. “...We did get the best of everything-- all my brothers and sisters-- we studied in the US. My three brothers and sisters are working in the US right now...” Some westerners have also adopted quite a few Sherpas, or married with Sherpas.
With the Europe and America-educated Sherpas increasingly abounding in today’s trekking, travel and hotel business of Nepal, they are now perhaps in almost the same situation as was the senior Norgay until he died some years ago, who said: It has been a long road.. from a mountain porter to a wearer of coat with rows of medal who is carried about in planes and worries about tax.”
There has been a unique metamorphosis: Sherpas’ mountain houses are now far better than that of an average Nepali. Occasionally, affluent Sherpas from Kathmandu charter helicopters to visit their faraway mountain houses, a very unusual thing here; even the wealthiest of Nepalis do not imagine affording such flights.
But a Sherpa watcher, who originally hails from Rolwaling valley-- a small village on the Shadow of Mt. Everest wonders if mountaineering has really improved the lot of Sherpa people. Almost all the Sherpas who have climbed Everest more than once are originally from Rolwaling.
He complains that affluent and educated Sherpas, who are more of businessmen than climbers, have reaped the whole benefit by cashing in on the popular image of their impoverished but extremely strong brethren. “How much actually do the climbers get? Even Ang Rita gets less than five thousand US dollars for a season-long ascent. Compare this to the monthly income of downtown Kathmandu’s educated Sherpa boss of a trekking agency.”
As long as the climbing Sherpas are illiterate, gullible and tolerant, they will continue to be exploited. However, it is a matter of relief that the new generation Sherpa climbers, with the advantage of critical education are becoming more and more assertive in their stance and demanding in climbing contracts.
This concern is almost echoed by Ang Rita Sherpa, the eleventh-time summitter of Everest. Rita, popularly called the Snow Leopard, speaking to the local press sometime ago said mountaineering has, apart from recognition, brought some relief to the Sherpa community; but not in the manner and amount it should have. His feelings were shrouded by bright hopes and a very faint touch of despair; he seemed happy that the young generation Sherpa was getting better food and education, but he said many Sherpa climbers, like himself, still cannot afford to buy an ordinary health insurance, not to mention maintaining bank balances.
Ang’s words reflecting Sherpa trade mark of optimism and positive attitude do not embody the pain and gloom that is accumulating in the climbing Sherpa community today. Though professional climbers of international repute, they are struggling daily to meet their ends meet.
He feared indigenous Sherpa culture was waning fast and the Khumbu’s environment and ecology was paying a high price due to incommensurate tourism. Ruminating on the fate of his people he said: Not all Sherpas can absorbed in the climbing industry. It is high time we diversify our skills and careers.”
With as little as 200 US dollars per capita income, more than sixty per cent of Sherpas live in absolute poverty. They depend on animal husbandry and cross-border trade with Tibet or India. Only a handful of Sherpas have controlled the benefit accruing from climbing or trekking business. While the government’s revenues are constantly on the rise, there has not been any official program specifically focused on their upliftment.
Rita hopes that some day the world will realize that Sherpas are not merely high altitude porters, they are more importantly extraordinary mountaineering sportsmen. Perhaps he is right. As more and more Sherpas benefit directly from the climbing business it is likely that Sherpa economy will shift someday from climbing industry to mountaineering sports. Think of a mountaineering world cup and more Mingmas startled with their own lives shaped by sports economy.
Write us your opinion about this article at feedback@newslookmag.com
Twenty-year-old Mingma Sherpa from Solu Khumbu could have hardly thought that his dreams would be fulfilled so sooner.The realization of the unique identity of his race has made even the toughest possible for him.
He grew up in utter poverty, and having no formal education or a sound economic base, he got accustomed since long to not dream the unrealizable.
Something happened some time ago, and his life changed dramatically. Today he has money, he is a frequent traveler to the United States and one of his sisters studies in California. “At least, my life has changed completely,” he says with an innocent grin, winking his chinky eyes. “I’m a Sherpa”, he recalls thinking aloud one fine day in the early 1996, “and climbing is what I’m made for.” Soon he joined an expedition as a high altitude porter. Since then there is no looking backward.
Mingma’s story is representative of many Sherpa youths today. In fact, there is nothing new in his story. The legendary first Everest summitter Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, despite his fluency in seven languages, was just the same illiterate person, whose life changed drastically following the succesful ascent. The same is true of other notable Sherpa climbers-- Ang Rita, Ang Kami, Sundare and more. Having carved a niche for themselves as the ‘Tigers of the Snows’, a growiing number of Sherpas are no more an obscure, impoverished and insulated people.
When the ‘mythical, exotic and inaccessible’ Nepal opened up for the Western World in the early 50s, the hippies and the bums flooded to Nepal to experience the ‘Wildest Dream of Kew”-- a reference to Rudyard Kipling’s poem on Nepal’s capital-- while at the same time more and more climbing expeditions began with the locally hired Sherpas.With the first successful ascent of Mt. Everest by Norgay and Edmund Hillary of New Zealand on the day Queen Elizabeth of England was coronated (May 28, 1953); Sherpa identity was firmly established. Because of their incomparable ability in climbing and carrying things to the highest camps, it very soon became a custom for all Himalayan expeditions to hire them.
In the words of Everest historian Audrey Salkeld, Sherpas have an unmatched spirit and positive outlook that has been written the world over. But the tragedy behind their success is seldom apparent. So is their economic plight. Since the early days of climbing, they have paid extremely a high price in life and limb. In the seven decades of Everest adventure Sherpas account to more than a third of the total casualties. They are exposed to the extreme risks of high mountain climbing more than anyone else because of their engagement in carrying things and fixing routes. They make up one fourth of the total ascents of Everest.
Some wonder what constitutes Sherpa strengh. Researchers are trying to find out if the highland Sherpas are physiologically different from other people. Dr. Cythia Beall, a physiologist of Case Western University thinks that there may be a genetic factor involved in the Sherpa vigor. “How the Sherpas adapt to high altitudes more effectively than others has been a puzzle to anthropologists and physiologists; And we don’t really have the answer. There is evidence of a gene that allows their blood to carry more oxygen.”
One of Nepal’s overlooked ethnic communities until a few decades ago, Sherpas have not only become a fascinating subject of study, they also have emerged as a meaningful global symbol. Scores of books, documentaries and films about them have also popularized their image as a western cultural icon. Remember the Canadian manufacturer of electronic appliances called the Sherpa, or the Seattle based interactive media group called the Virtual Sherpas?
The first ascent of Everest marking the beginning of tourism industry in Nepal opened up the floodgates to bevies of climbers, trekkers, and tourists, including Jimmy Carter in the early 60s. Tourism considerably changed the local economy and Sherpa lifestyle in the Solu Khumbu region.
Though majority of Sherpas are still poor, illiterate and immobile, in recent years an elite, affluent and altogether different class of Sherpa people have emerged in some regions of Solu and in the city of Kathmandu. Having migrated to Nepal in the 15th century from Kham province in Eastern Tibet, Sherpas with a total population of 21,000 live not only in the whole region of the shadow of Mt. Everest including a certain number of localities in the areas of Helambu, Melenchi, Tharkegyang, there are also many living overseas. According to newspaper reports, there are about 500 Sherpas in New York City alone.
Though no roads or highways to drive to Sherpaland, with Coke, Pepsi, satellite dishes and Sherpas clad in T-shirts and jeans, Namche Bazar, the capital city of Sherpaland, is already a familiar environment for western tourists. Ed Hillary’s Himalayan Trust, dedicated to improving the lot of Sherpa community has had a great bearing on the lives of these people. The Khumjung School, run by the Trust, has been contributing in Sherpa education.
Many Sherpas can now afford to study abroad.Tenzing’s son Jamling Norgay, who too climbed the Everest in1997, acknowledges his indebtedness to his father for the excellent educational opportunity he got. “...We did get the best of everything-- all my brothers and sisters-- we studied in the US. My three brothers and sisters are working in the US right now...” Some westerners have also adopted quite a few Sherpas, or married with Sherpas.
With the Europe and America-educated Sherpas increasingly abounding in today’s trekking, travel and hotel business of Nepal, they are now perhaps in almost the same situation as was the senior Norgay until he died some years ago, who said: It has been a long road.. from a mountain porter to a wearer of coat with rows of medal who is carried about in planes and worries about tax.”
There has been a unique metamorphosis: Sherpas’ mountain houses are now far better than that of an average Nepali. Occasionally, affluent Sherpas from Kathmandu charter helicopters to visit their faraway mountain houses, a very unusual thing here; even the wealthiest of Nepalis do not imagine affording such flights.
But a Sherpa watcher, who originally hails from Rolwaling valley-- a small village on the Shadow of Mt. Everest wonders if mountaineering has really improved the lot of Sherpa people. Almost all the Sherpas who have climbed Everest more than once are originally from Rolwaling.
He complains that affluent and educated Sherpas, who are more of businessmen than climbers, have reaped the whole benefit by cashing in on the popular image of their impoverished but extremely strong brethren. “How much actually do the climbers get? Even Ang Rita gets less than five thousand US dollars for a season-long ascent. Compare this to the monthly income of downtown Kathmandu’s educated Sherpa boss of a trekking agency.”
As long as the climbing Sherpas are illiterate, gullible and tolerant, they will continue to be exploited. However, it is a matter of relief that the new generation Sherpa climbers, with the advantage of critical education are becoming more and more assertive in their stance and demanding in climbing contracts.
This concern is almost echoed by Ang Rita Sherpa, the eleventh-time summitter of Everest. Rita, popularly called the Snow Leopard, speaking to the local press sometime ago said mountaineering has, apart from recognition, brought some relief to the Sherpa community; but not in the manner and amount it should have. His feelings were shrouded by bright hopes and a very faint touch of despair; he seemed happy that the young generation Sherpa was getting better food and education, but he said many Sherpa climbers, like himself, still cannot afford to buy an ordinary health insurance, not to mention maintaining bank balances.
Ang’s words reflecting Sherpa trade mark of optimism and positive attitude do not embody the pain and gloom that is accumulating in the climbing Sherpa community today. Though professional climbers of international repute, they are struggling daily to meet their ends meet.
He feared indigenous Sherpa culture was waning fast and the Khumbu’s environment and ecology was paying a high price due to incommensurate tourism. Ruminating on the fate of his people he said: Not all Sherpas can absorbed in the climbing industry. It is high time we diversify our skills and careers.”
With as little as 200 US dollars per capita income, more than sixty per cent of Sherpas live in absolute poverty. They depend on animal husbandry and cross-border trade with Tibet or India. Only a handful of Sherpas have controlled the benefit accruing from climbing or trekking business. While the government’s revenues are constantly on the rise, there has not been any official program specifically focused on their upliftment.
Rita hopes that some day the world will realize that Sherpas are not merely high altitude porters, they are more importantly extraordinary mountaineering sportsmen. Perhaps he is right. As more and more Sherpas benefit directly from the climbing business it is likely that Sherpa economy will shift someday from climbing industry to mountaineering sports. Think of a mountaineering world cup and more Mingmas startled with their own lives shaped by sports economy.
Write us your opinion about this article at feedback@newslookmag.com
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